The street

Knocking noodle cart

Late at night, when the whole lane had gone to bed, a steady “knock… knock… knock” would drift in from the mouth of the alley. That was the hủ tiếu gõ cart: the seller tapped two pieces of wood together instead of calling out, which is where the name comes from. On the cart sat a pot of steaming broth, a stack of bowls and a flickering oil lamp.

At the sound, your stomach started to rumble. Anyone up late studying, watching football or unable to sleep went to the door and ordered a bowl: chewy noodles, a lightly sweet broth, a scatter of fried garlic. Afterwards the night felt a little shorter, and the knocking faded away into another alley.

Do you remember? Do you remember a night you stepped out to order from the knocking noodle cart?

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