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The street

Silken-tofu cart

In the evening, or once night had fallen, the long, drawn-out call of the tofu seller would drift into the alley. The cart held little more than a big aluminium pot, a jar of syrup simmered with ginger, and a stack of small bowls. The seller used a flat ladle to skim thin sheets of silky white tofu, thin as paper, laid them in a bowl and poured the steaming ginger syrup over the top.

A bowl was small and cheap, and the tofu melted as fast as you ate it, gently sweet with a warm sting of ginger. On rainy days or chilly nights, cupping the hot bowl in both hands made everything feel lighter. Some households asked for a spoonful of coconut cream on top.

Do you remember? Do you remember how the tofu seller's call stretched out in your alley?

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A pushcart with a big pot of silky tofu, a jar of ginger syrup and a long, drawn-out call: one warm bowl to settle the whole evening.

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